Madras Curry

Fiery dried chilis and toasted spices distinguish Madras Curry, the piquant mixture named after the tropical south Indian city (and major chili trading center) now known as Chennai. But each kitchen makes it according to its own traditions, with its particular combination of aromatic, freshly roasted spices. It’s typically red, but ours is yellow and has a subtle heat, with notes of coriander, ginger and cinnamon. Crushed bay leaf lends its perfume.